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View Full Version : I this the way I like it, or not? (levels)


CaptJR
December 25th, 2003, 12:21 AM
I hadn't use auto levels much till lately. Now I use it every time, BUT its after I work the level on my own.

I'm sure you've noticed that 'auto-levels' before you work the levels on your own is entirely different that 'auto-levels' used after you have worked with the levels.

While I'm working the levels on my own I'm allways wondering if I have it the best that I can. I now think I've found a check that seems to tell me when I've done the best I can do. After getting the picture to where I think it should be, I click OK and then I click on 'auto-levels'. If the picture doesn't change at all, then I know I've got it.

What do you think?

JR

Rockyw
December 25th, 2003, 09:30 PM
I have tried this as well as auto color at times. I don't use them much as I find I can't improve a lot on the converted RAWs. I use a gray card a lot now, so the colors are very close to as was shot. I do find candids are sometimes helped with auto level or color, but sometimes I then lose detail in the picture. The one wedding we shot JPEG we had to tweak every picture, in RAW we don't find a need for that any more.

Linda G
December 26th, 2003, 10:06 PM
I can't do that because not all my shots have a true white point or black point. I don't like it that contrasty so I mess with it myself if it's needed.

You're right, if you mess with it yourself first, the auto levels will make a totally different correction.

eric
December 27th, 2003, 03:57 AM
I don't like levels much, I prefer to use curves. But to set a white and black point I go into image-adjust-threshold. Move the slider all the way in one direction and it will go all black, just before it does this shift-click on the last white spot. Then do the same in the other direction and shift-click on the last black spot.Then cancel. This leaves markers on the darkest and lightest points in the picture. You can then use the black and white eyedroppers in either levels or curves to set the black and white points at the markers you have just made. I find this works in most occaions and it will also take out colour casts.

Linda G
December 27th, 2003, 06:46 PM
I learned on curves but teaching others, I've found levels easier for them to understand. curves is by far a more powerful tool than levels but it can also cause more problems when learning. Kind of like bunny hills for beginner skiiers, some never need to advance, others grasp it right away and take off, no bones broken!

HulaMike
January 3rd, 2004, 03:34 PM
If you're looking for a globally well balanced image you should at minimum "tighten up" both the white and black points on your histogram under levels to maximize the usable dynamic range. IE: slide the sliders up to the B&W starting points on your "mountain" (assuming you have room left and right.) Of course, this is meaningless if you're trying to create a mood that intentionally clips either the white or black end of the histogram.

From there you adjust tonality and contrast in curves. At least that's the way I work.

HulaMike
January 3rd, 2004, 03:50 PM
Originally posted by Linda G
You're right, if you mess with it yourself first, the auto levels will make a totally different correction.

Linda, I work individual images a lot. I usually set a neutral grey point in levels then tighten up the white & black starting points on the histogram. From there it's off to curves where I experiment and play with various combinations till I'm satisfied. Often I desaturate the S2 images as the reds are just too strong some of the time. Anyway, after I work an image to 'almost' perfect I sometimes then use "auto levels" to bring it home. That's about the only time I use this command.

AndreK
January 5th, 2004, 04:22 PM
Originally posted by eric
I don't like levels much, I prefer to use curves. But to set a white and black point I go into image-adjust-threshold. Move the slider all the way in one direction and it will go all black, just before it does this shift-click on the last white spot. Then do the same in the other direction and shift-click on the last black spot.Then cancel. This leaves markers on the darkest and lightest points in the picture. You can then use the black and white eyedroppers in either levels or curves to set the black and white points at the markers you have just made. I find this works in most occaions and it will also take out colour casts.

Here is a quick way to see if you have blown out or blocked up parts. Hold the ALT key and click the white and black point. This way you don't have to slide it.